Had a an awesome day at Rubicon with Northern Ben, Byron and Scuba Steve yesterday. After months of getting shut down on font7c's I finally managed to man up enough to get one done. Despite it being soft and a 1 move wonder, it's broken the mental barrier which will allow me to get on with some of the awesome problems I've been trying in the cave.
I saw off the three variations of kudos and left the dirty looking sitter for another day. Also finally got a bigger splash which I was massively more up for once told it finished on low jugs instead of high (don't know where I got that impression from.) I was also informed by Ben that there was a v6 right of a bigger splash called a bigger prize which I then flashed - although I'm sure we must have been in the wrong place cause it was never v6!
I really like Rubicon, as it kind of plays to my strengths (everything but the press? - which is stupidly hard!!!) I'm well and truly psyched for the sport down there. Hot Fun Closing has been on my ticklist for sometime and now that I know that Kudos Hard Way suits me pretty well I'm hoping to give it a go in the near future!
Also had a day at the cave on Monday and got massively shut down by Rock Attrocity. Had a good first go, but it went down hill after that! When we got there I repeated Clever Beaver and Clever Cleaver and felt pretty strong. I then proceeded to shut myself down on Rock Att so after completely spanking myself on the end moved onto left wall high. Managed to do the flake start relatively easily again and now worked out some awesome new beta for the start which saves about 5moves! Gonna give this a real attempt next time I'm there, maybe sometime next week? I did however managed to tick one new route despite it being rather grim - Ring of Fire Low.
Anyway back to work this weekend, may get some climbing at the churnet today, if not I'l have a pretty hard session tomorrow.
Thursday, 26 August 2010
Saturday, 7 August 2010
Post Cave
Had a steady trip to Parisella's. Got a good few problems done albeit the conditions not being perfect. Actually, that's a lie. When we arrived at 9pm on wednesday night the conditions were amazing. Hands literally stuck to the rock. After a little route wiring, I sent Left Wall Traverse. This required me to strip down to my boxers for a power attempt, which worked. I was really happy having done this route after putting it off for so long. Byron got very close to sending Louis Ferrino (also having a power boxer attempt.) And Northern Ben got close on Dust Kick Low (possibly the grungiest looking problem in the cave!)
After much tea and gruelling over the shit weather, we decided to wait for conditions to improve in the cave by inducing a forced rest. Although this ended as soon as we arrived back at the cave around mid day and we ended up trying some stamina link-ups instead of waiting for conditions on our projects. I was a complete douche and dropped the CB low link into Bust Lip on the final match. Fortunately I sent it next go. I did the same again on the CB low link into Parisella's original. Although I didn't give it another shot. Byron showed how much of a beast he was by essentially campussing parisella's original because he was scared of using his heel. Beast. I was pleased with sending CB low into Lipped Out though. This only occurred because I wrong handed myself on the original link and decided to finish up this! Doh. Also spent sometime on Left Wall, working on the second half of Left Wall High. (Which has become my new project - mega psyched for this now.)
Friday saw some more pretty appalling cave conditions. Although we didn't let this stop us from getting on a few things. Danny and I worked Left Wall High for a bit and realised how cruxey the last few moves are when your spanked! Still mega psyched. We then set about ticking all of the easier problems on the right hand side of the crag which ended up being a really good session. Our ascent of Beaver Righthand may rank as one of the all time greatest climbing achievements. Danny also impressively flashed RWT into Clever Cleaver. Making V9 look like a breeze.
As the conditions in the cave were less then ideal we decided to head back on friday. This did however mean I could give Byron's woody a real session. After putting Bob's new holds onto the board we absolutely spanked ourselves.
Got a few rest days now, so will hopefully get some feeling back in my arms! Mega psyched for the lake district.
And on other news, I'm going to Majik wood. I am fucking psyched. Psyched.
After much tea and gruelling over the shit weather, we decided to wait for conditions to improve in the cave by inducing a forced rest. Although this ended as soon as we arrived back at the cave around mid day and we ended up trying some stamina link-ups instead of waiting for conditions on our projects. I was a complete douche and dropped the CB low link into Bust Lip on the final match. Fortunately I sent it next go. I did the same again on the CB low link into Parisella's original. Although I didn't give it another shot. Byron showed how much of a beast he was by essentially campussing parisella's original because he was scared of using his heel. Beast. I was pleased with sending CB low into Lipped Out though. This only occurred because I wrong handed myself on the original link and decided to finish up this! Doh. Also spent sometime on Left Wall, working on the second half of Left Wall High. (Which has become my new project - mega psyched for this now.)
Friday saw some more pretty appalling cave conditions. Although we didn't let this stop us from getting on a few things. Danny and I worked Left Wall High for a bit and realised how cruxey the last few moves are when your spanked! Still mega psyched. We then set about ticking all of the easier problems on the right hand side of the crag which ended up being a really good session. Our ascent of Beaver Righthand may rank as one of the all time greatest climbing achievements. Danny also impressively flashed RWT into Clever Cleaver. Making V9 look like a breeze.
As the conditions in the cave were less then ideal we decided to head back on friday. This did however mean I could give Byron's woody a real session. After putting Bob's new holds onto the board we absolutely spanked ourselves.
Got a few rest days now, so will hopefully get some feeling back in my arms! Mega psyched for the lake district.
And on other news, I'm going to Majik wood. I am fucking psyched. Psyched.
Tuesday, 3 August 2010
Pre Cave Psych
After a very productive trip to the Cave last week, Byron and I decided to head back for some more cave abuse. I've climbed indoors once over the last four days to try and get enough rest between the two trips. A couple of routes I've been losing sleep over are, Rock Atrocity and Clever Cleaver Low. Glad to have got the low start wired to Clever Beaver last week. I now need to piece it all together! Left Wall is also a big aim for this visit. Come saturday I'm either going to be mega psyched, or massively disappointed.
Indoors on monday was a mixed session. Fingers ached. Felt strong at the start of the session but quickly got tired after spending about 45mins on the moon wall (after sport). Fell off a F7b which I should have completed due to the stupidity of clipping 2 bolts from a poor hold. Got shut down on a F7c after getting a severe flash pump at the 3rd clip. Very frustrated. Shouldn't really have expected much as I'd spent two full days at work after Parisella's trip so have not had real rest day yet. Talking about rest days, Dexter was on his 7th day on or something stupid (He needs to have a rest!)
Indoors on monday was a mixed session. Fingers ached. Felt strong at the start of the session but quickly got tired after spending about 45mins on the moon wall (after sport). Fell off a F7b which I should have completed due to the stupidity of clipping 2 bolts from a poor hold. Got shut down on a F7c after getting a severe flash pump at the 3rd clip. Very frustrated. Shouldn't really have expected much as I'd spent two full days at work after Parisella's trip so have not had real rest day yet. Talking about rest days, Dexter was on his 7th day on or something stupid (He needs to have a rest!)
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